A ‘simple place’ in BOLOGNA
I’m a hunter of experiences … of patterns and of meaning. On my third visit to Bologna, I finally found a restaurant that linked with my heart: Ahimè, or ‘alas’, recorded in the Italian dictionary as an expression of ‘physical or spiritual pain, discomfort or dismay’.
I found solace from the ‘pain’ of the everyday news in the honesty of the food, the naturalness of the wine, the sourdough bread made from grain from the Emilia region, and from the fact that all five men (if not four – I’ve never been good at counting) who run the restaurant were there that day.
Ahimè is a ‘simple place for every day use’, with a focus on vegetables, which mostly come from the restaurant’s farms. Plastic is also not to be seen, while on the shelf above the bar was a copy of Noble Rot, the discerning London-based magazine about wine.
I plunged into the tasting menu of five dishes, at Euros70. Not a price that I would pay every day, but then for the other days at Ahimè, there’s à la carte. I also wrapped up my bread to serve as my supper, together with apricots that I had brought at the nearby Mercato delle Erbe food market.
A side dish on Bologna
Bologna is a smallish city, with under 400,000 people. It has three nicknames:
· La Rossa – the red one, referring to the red hue of the buildings, made from local clay, and to the colour of the local politics.
· La Dotta – the learned one… the streets of Bologna, home to Europe’s first university, resonate to the shouts and laughter of the city’s 85,000 or so students.
· La Grassa – the fat one… given the fame of its cuisine.
The city is renowned for its portici, or arcades, which provide the perfect shelter from the torrid sunshine and torrential rain that blighted my first two visits.
Bologna is also capital of Emilia-Romagna, a region famous for its fast cars (think Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, Ducati), slow food (it’s the birthplace of the Slow Food movement), and for Parmegiano-Reggiano (Parmesan cheese), Parma ham and Modena balsamic vinegar.
Food is at the heart of the social culture in Bologna, but finding memorable places that serve local, seasonal produce prepared creatively is surprisingly hard, hence my delight in finding Animè.
Instead, the city’s eateries focus on traditional, Bolognese fare: on mortadella (that bright pink cold sausage with white chunks of fat in it), tagliatelle al ragu (the origin of spaghetti bolognese) and lasagne. Vegetables are a side order – with a choice of boiled or fried.
It is an easy city for walking or cycling. My geographical reference points are the main square of Piazza Maggiore, the twin medieval towers of Asinelli and Garisenda, and the main thoroughfare axis formed vertically by Via dell’Indipendenza (leading to the station) and horizontally by the Via Ugo Bassi/Via Rizzoli.
I first visited the city in August 2022, then again in May 2023 and most recently in April 2024.
Why I go to Bologna
I go to Bologna on my way to Southern Tuscany. Rome and Florence are closer to my destiny, but catching the train from Bologna to Chiusi-chianciano Terme only takes 30 minutes longer, plus I can also stop off in Florence on the way.
In addition, Bologna has fewer tourists, it’s easy to get into the city from the airport, flights are often cheaper, and you can easily walk or cycle everywhere within the city centre.
Restaurants in Bologna
Il Rovescio – a ‘0 km’ restaurant, good for vegetarians. I went for the tartare of buffalo meat with asparagus, the vegetarian lasagne and a local red wine made from the Barbera grape (visited in 2024).
Trattoria Osteria Buca Manzoni – a basic trattoria serving tasty tortellini… and then I ordered a side plate of steamed vegetables. A casual place. Full of locals (2023).
Caminetto d’Oro – a trattoria off Via dell’Indipendenza, where I had an excellent tagliatelle al ragu at lunchtime. You might like to order a side dish of steamed vegetables (2022).
Ristorante Diana – a Bolognese institution, off the Via dell’Indipendenza, with starched white tablecloths, waiters in white jackets, historic black-and-white photos on the walls, and the sound of clinking glasses (2022). I went for two Bolognese classics: mortadella, in the form of a foam served with parmesan and pistachios wafers, and lasagna with a side dish of steamed vegetables.
In Roman mythology, Diana was the goddess of the hunter, and it was at Ristorante Diana that I discovered the local sparkling wine, Pignoletto frizzante dei Colli Bolognesi.
Enoteca Storica Faccioli – for a glass of natural wine. I especially liked the local, red Sangiovese wine by Noelia Ricci. A friendly place that serves lunch on some days of the week (2022).
Via Con Me – a small, colourful restaurant near the Mercato delle Erba, and directly opposite Animè. It’s named after a 1980s song by the grainy voiced Paolo Conte. As well as gazpacho, I had a glass of white wine made using the Albana grape, said to have been grown in the region for over 2,500 years (2022).
Gelato, coffee & pastries
Every Bolognese will tell you that good ice-cream is found across the city. For me there’s only one place: Cremeria Santo Stefano.
I waited 30 minutes in a queue that wrapped round the block. The reward: a cone combining the flavour of the month (rose water with strawberries) with ‘Lebanese cream’ (orange flower water, almonds & pistachio).
For coffee and pastries, a favourite Forno Brisa, between the train station and the main Via Rizzoli. They also do the most amazing artisanal chocolate, made with 30 per cent hazelnut.
If I want to sit on a terrace, I go to Bar Pasticceria Santo Stefano – a bar like many others but on the quiet Santo Stefano street, in the part which leads down to the Basilica Santuario Santo Stephano, a cluster of 7 churches overlooking a square.
Don’t forget the art!
Head to the Pinacoteca Nazionale Bologna to catch up on the 16th century Mannerist movement for which Bologna is famous.
The name, Mannerism, comes from the Italian word maniera, which meant ‘style’ in the sense of elegance, as well as “rarefied complexity and artificiality”.
Leading the movement in Bologna, which came in the wake of the High Renaissance (think Da Vinci, Michelangelo and Raphael), was Prospero Fontana.
His students included his daughter Lavinia Fontana, who went on to became a favoured portraitist among the great families of Bologna.
Where to stay in Bologna
Hotel Accademia – a three-star hotel at a 20-minute walk from the central train station, on the edge of the university district. High ceilings, friendly staff and well-insulated windows. My favourite single room: No 250.
Places for next time
- Allegra – a breakfast, lunch & a natural wine bistro.
- Ristorante Grassilli – a recommendation from the local chef who I sat next to at Animé, together with Scaccomatto agli Orti, where you can sit outside in the garden.
- Trattoria da Me – a recommendation by a visiting English chef who I met on the plane into Bologna.
- MAMbo – the Bologna Museum of Modern Art.
- Damiani Books – a publisher of art, fashion, design and photography books.
- A 40-minute train journey from Bologna, in Reggia Emilia, is Fotografia Europea, the international contemporary photography festival, held each spring.
Find these places on my map of Bologna.
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About the blog
‘A Conscious Way to Travel’ was born out of my frustration in finding magical places when I travelled. This is despite the plethora of guide books, magazines reviews and the world wide web.
The word ‘conscious’ is about slowing down, being more aware. ‘Conscious places’ are beautiful places that offer a distinct experience, and which open the door to …
- ART to lift the soul
- NATURAL WINE and HUMAN WARMTH to free the spirit
- SEASONAL FOOD prepared with THE HEART to replenish the body.
As food is for sharing, so are good stories… and good addresses. If these are your kind of places, follow me on Instagram for updates.
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